Homola and Homonna--What's Going on in Paloznak?

What can you do if you are mad for wine, have money to invest, but little time? Employ a good wine-maker, buy a vineyard with a view of Balaton and learn step-by-step. This is the course Szabolcs Homola, owner of Homola Pincészet follows, trying to make the best of his Paloznak estate on the side of Attilla Homonna chief wine-maker.

'I fell in love with the Hajnóczy-dűlő in Paloznak. I think Paloznak radiates unique magic and energy,' explains Szabolcs, who originally started to add further plots of land to his house, cellar and vineyard in order to comply with construction regulations. 'Then I got swept away and reached 8 acres, then 10; if I want something, I go full steam,' he says. 'We started out with a different team, but since I found Attila, I have felt good about our direction. Why him? I checked which wine-maker had a name most similar to mine. Just joking. Once I did receive a bottle of Homonna from friends, with the two Ns crossed out. This is your first proper wine, they joked.'

'I consider the Homola wines my own. I have a word in the quantity, style and cultivation. Still, in reality Attila is the brain behind this. He is an excessively nice fellow, who knows grapes and wine-making very well, and has a terrific style; we have become good friends, although we rarely meet. As for me, I learn from him, as my time permits.My goal is to be adept at winemaking in 10 years, at the age of 52.'
It was Attila Homonna, coined by many wine journalists as one of the most influential wine-makers of today, who switched production to hands-on winemaking here, and the result manifested in the barrelled Homola-series. He was also responsible for the creation of the 100% wine family (100% Balaton, 100% Rizling and 100% Habzó Rozé), which is a light, reductive line that radiates a real Balaton-feel.

The Homola-estate consists of the vineyards in 4 different areas: in Paloznak, around the estate centre, in Csopak and by the Belső-tó in Tihany. The majority of the grapes enjoys an enviable view all day--no wonder they feel good. The Homola Pince has taken over the cultivation of several estates with a view where the basic goal was the construction of a house. 'The price per acre for a vineyard with panorama can be 10-15 times of the price of a plot taht needs to be replanted. The price of my lands could have bought me a 300-year-old estate in Tuscany, but it is too far away. The Balaton is close and sailing is my other passion,' explains Szabolcs.

The chief wine-maker, Attila Homonna took on a straining task: from his vineyard in Erdőbénye, near Tokaj he practically crosses the country every week to spend about two days a week overseeing the work on the Homola-estate. Szabolcs Homola also has a busy timetable: the businessman has interests in Budapest and abroad. He says that he should raise the number of days spent at Balaton to 200 per year, those spent abroad to about 100, and leave the rest for Budapest. This is but a dream for the moment.
This year's harvest was one of the rare occasions when one could meet both in the tasting parlour and wait for the grapes to arrive for destemming and crushing at around 10 at night.