Gyula Szabó, baker – that’s what the sign above the entrance says. It is only half true, as Mr. Szabó no longer works here, but the bakery indeed employs several fine bakers. The daughter of Mr. Szabó has run the business together with her husband for more than 20 years now. In the evenings the couple makes a fire in the wood burning oven, and they start kneading the dough for the leavened bread in the early morning hours.

Don’t expect to find new-wave creations or modern baking kit here: the interior looks as though the change of regime had never happened. Instead they offer all the excellent classics ranging from curd cheese and jam “pockets” to chocolate “snails”.

The huge popularity of the bakery is demonstrated by the number of regular visitors: the owners know all of their customers by name, and they also remember what everyone usually orders. If you want to beat the queues, you’ll have to arrive early, especially as the shop closes at 11 in the morning.

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