Balatonfüred has taken retro style as far back as the 19th century: even the bearded Hungarian politicians of 170 years ago, like Lajos Kossuth would give their approval to the pimped city center. These retro waves have, however, failed to reach the Hatlépcsős, a restaurant adjacent to the city centre. It's also retro, but from a different era: a stronghold of plain, traditional restaurants. As it often happens with gin mills, the place is not know by its real name, Muskátli Restaurant,but as Hatlépcsős (meaning Six Steps). Why? Because six steps lead up from street level to the entrance, which is a fact you'd better remember even after a few drinks. Hatlépcsős is widely known for its toast with bone marrow. Don't imagine small slices of toast bread with a tiny bowl of spread and veggies on the side, this is not a gourmet establishment. They serve you a gigantic slice of homemade bread with a serious amount of spicy and fatty marrow on it. Hatlépcsős is only a one-hit-wonder: it excels in nothing else, but its marrow toast is simply perfect.