If you thought riding your bike around Lake Balaton was a tough physical test that took a lot of preparation, you couldn't be more wrong. Just grab your bike, catch a train to Balaton and go! We'll tell you where to go and where to look when you're riding along the Balaton Bike Ring.
At the end of the workday early in the summer of 2012 I jumped on the train with my bike at the Déli Railway Terminal in Budapest. I arrived to Balatonfüred at 9:30 PM and I started to ride in the direction of Zamárdi. I stopped at the beach of Balatonakarattya and then while I was listening to my music I rode along Balatonaliga's high shore, from where I saw the lights of the North Shore. Then I rolled into Siófok and had a hot dog surrounded by party people on Petőfi sétány. I rode to Zamárdi with a small detour due to confusing road signs. I had a swim at the beach of Zamárdi then I got on the early morning train to Budapest. I was in my bed by 8 AM. This is one of my best memories about Balaton.
My tour may seem to be a bit of an extreme, but it has every important element of riding around Lake Balaton, irrespective of whether you're a performance-oriented sportsman, a hedonist all for fun, or the member of a family convoy. Not only for ironmen. If you thought riding along the Balaton Bike Ring was as big a challenge as the Tour de France, you’ll be disappointed. The bike ring is 230 kilometers long and it goes all around the lake. The bike road is for the most part separated from the main road; it is chiefly flat and running through populated areas. On the rare occassions that the separated bike road ends, you'll find minor roads perfectly suitable for biking, and the bike road signs are there to guide you as well.
You won't find killer climbs here, not even along the North Shore, since the road follows the shore. On the South Shore it only gets steep when you’re climbing up to the high shore between Balatonaliga and Balatonkenese, but the magnificent view and the following downhill ride are fair compensations. There are two honest uphills on the North Shore: near Balatonszepezd and in the side of Badacsony Hill.
It is a bit surprising, but using the bike road turns tricky only in the populated areas, because the pedestrians tend to use the bike lane as a sidewalk. Pay attention and use your bell if it is necessary, but in overall just be patient with people who have no clue as to why you're ringing. The Petőfi sétány in Siófok and the Tagore sétány in Balatonfüred are perfect examples of the above. The worst section is the one between Császtai beach and the port in Révfülöp, where one must navigate through a one-meter-wide sidewalk packed with pedestrians, kids, and grandmothers all heading to the beach with accessories like water mattresses, ice creams, and baby strollers. No need for a service car, neither a bicycle.
Don't worry if you don't have a car to carry your bike to Lake Balaton, because almost every train going in the direction of the lake has a car for conveying bikes, which is also signalled in the timetables. These cars are simple, often crowded (luckily), but they don't have a ramp. There are other passengers though, who will gladly help you with lifting your bike aboard. In addition to your ticket, you will also need to buy a bike ticket, however, with the special bike tour ticket for Balaton you can get on and off the train multiple times between your starting point and your destination without having to purchase another bike ticket.
The bike ring cuts through centre of lakeside settlements,often running along the shore, through dbo beaches and weaving in between buffets. This is entertaining and useful at the same time: you can easily plan short rides as well, between two neighboring beaches. Having a service shop in every 10 kilometers is still a dream, but the number of resting points for bikers is constantly growing. Still,shops, buffets, gas stations, and railway stations follow each other pretty close. Something is always within reach in case your bike is broken, you are tired and want to take the train, or you simply need a bite. In the bigger settlements, you will find service shops and bike rentals as well. MOL (a Hungarian oil and gas company) runs service points around the bike ring in the summer, where they help you fix minor problems free of charge and you can buy refreshments as well.
Ride without GPS
It is difficult to get lost on the Balaton Bike Ring. The road is marked with road signs and markings all along. Unfortunately, the only representatives of German precision here are BMWs parked on the bike road: signs can be messy or hidden in the foliage. When the separated bike road ends, it's sometimes hard to tell which street to choose at the crossroads. Don't worry, taking a wrong turn in the populated areas soon become pretty obvious and you can get back to the bike ring easily. When leaving Badacsony eastbound, be wary that the signs at the roundabout on the edge of town might detour you to the old route of the bike ring the Káli Basin instead of the lake.
You can hardly get lost on the bike ring, because there are not many side-roads and alternative routes. All in all, there are three side-roads: at Tihany, at Szigliget and at Siófok near the Sió Channel. Apart from these, there are major roads suitable for bikers to explore the Somogy Hills, the Káli Basin, or the swamps around Kis-Balaton. You might need the Balaton Cycling Map for these tours though. (Click for the 2011 version of the map.) It is all about experiences. The guys on the train might be unpleasant, and you might get upset by messed up signs or by a random sausage festival thrown in the exact middle of the bike road. There might be headwind, scorching sunshine, backaches, sweat and your seat might prove to be as uncomfortable as a bed of nails. These are all possible, but you are never ever bored. One moment you're surrounded by reeds or woods; the next moment the smells of sun lotion and lángos hit your nose and girls in bikinis and guys in swimwear are all around you. Five minutes later the scene changes to vineyards, summer houses and poplar trees. Lake Balaton is always right next you. You don't need a professional bike, or outstanding fitness to enjoy all of this: just stop and rest for a few minutes if you want to.
The top spots
There are a few must-see spots when you're riding around Balaton. The road takes you along the edge of the high shore between Balatonvilágos and Balatonkenese. There is a resting point near Balatonvilágos, where you can enjoy the view. You can find Szépkilátó (meaning: Beautiful Lookout Tower) on the other side of Balaton near Balatongyörök. Its name speaks for itself, and the climb is easy. Approach Szépkilátó from Szigliget, take a break, then roll down the bike road that runs along the shore all the way to Keszthely. The old route of the bike ring between Badacsony and Zánka through the Káli Basin is worth a try as well. If you enjoy riding along straight and wide streets surrounded by summer houses and poplar trees, then choose the neighbourhood of Balatonboglár and Balatonlelle, or the Zamárdi-Széplak-Siófok axis. If you're into more diversified scenery, give the North Shore a try anywhere between Tihany and Badacsony. It has it all: hills, water, road turns, villages, and everything you need.
