The one-time Mafilm resort, now called Bagira Pension, has been owned by the Bokker family for a long time. This year Katalin Bokker took over the management of the pension from her father. She has many plans for the building, which is hardly as modern as it once was, but is all the more authentic.
Bagira Pension is located on the Szántód-adjacent edge of Balatonföldvár, not far from Highway 7 or the Balatonföldvár and Szántód-Kőröshegy railway stations. The owners will shuttle you from the stations to the pension and back free of charge.
Katalin, like many others in the ‘80s and ‘90s, spent summer holidays at the Balaton. She worked at the pension run by her family: she changed beds, served breakfast and dinner, did the washing up and cleaned the rooms. This is where she would spend New Year’s Eves, too.
Back then the Balaton was a popular wintertime destination for a lot of German tourists. Behind the fogged up windows Katalin was drawing beer for the jolly Germans. She would have much rather spent her evenings with friends in Budapest.
The pension has not changed much, but Katalin’s attitude sure has. It was still spring, but she was already excited, waiting for the time to pack up the family and the car, and head down to Balatonföldvár. She is no longer deterred by the ever-growing workload that comes with owning a pension. She would even want to spend winters here again.
Katalin’s dad, who ran Bagira until recently, has not made a lot of changes. Some parts of the building are definitely in need of modernization, but some of the Socialist Balaton feeling, mostly left intact, would be great to preserve, says Katalin.
For example, the common room with its huge windows, surrounded by shady trees from the outside. Linoleum flooring, comfy armchairs and a spacious sunbathing terrace – this is what you’ll find in the community space at the end of the first-floor corridor.
Hexagonal stools, brown and cream curtains, and the original signs for the various rooms take you back to your childhood and the Socialist era.
There is also a bar at the back with a beer tap, a vending machine and a bar billiards table. Unfortunately none of them can be used in their present state, but that will change if Katalin can help it. She wants the bar to operate again, and she is planning to have the heating fixed, too. It will take a couple of years, but there is a lot to do in the meantime.
The garden is in full bloom. It is a typical Balaton scene: ancient trees, roses and the inevitable swing chairs, which are favourites among the guests, with good reason.
The dining room is in the garden as well: a shady arbour, ashlar walls, black-and-white check tiles and simple wooden tables with a view of the roses, the fountain and the kids’ corner.
The toys of Katalin’s children are stored by the stairs for all to use. Jump on a scooter or a bike, or opt for one of the two different sized skateboards, which are clearly the most exciting options.
Whether you choose any of these rides or decide to go on foot, Balatonföldvár Eastern Public Beach is just a few minutes away. Entry is free to this beach, which has two beach volleyball and a beach handball court, a water slide, a trampoline, animation for kids, and this is where you’ll find one of the best surf schools around the Balaton.
If it is too hot for anything else, explore the nearby sedge-marsh or pop over to the teahouse in Sajkod for a cup of tea by kayak, SUP, surf or a small sailboat.
There are a lot of hiking and bike trails in the area, so you’ll have plenty of things to do outside high season. We would definitely check out the Kereki Castle, stopping off on our way at the Kőröshegy Viaduct, where a café with a splendid panorama will soon open its gates.
